Space the tomatoes as you normally would; I use three feet apart. Drive one stake
for every two tomatoes, with stakes on the end. Angle the end stakes outward to
take the weight. They need to be sturdy; I use metal fenceposts and pull them up
at the end of the season (talk about ease of storage).

Using heavy twine, tie a line about 8-10" from the ground on an end stake. Run the
line on one side of the next two tomato plants (side A), then to side B of the
post; take a turn around the post, and run on side A of the next two plants.

When you get to the end, return the opposite way: side B of the plants, side A of
the posts. This pulls each line in toward the center, sandwiching the plants; if
you don't "weave" it this way, the plants will tend to lean out more.

Run lines every 8-10" as the plants grow; tuck suckers in every few days. No
pruning is necessary, though I tend to prune suckers below the first line of twine
to keep things a little neater around ground level. As the season progresses, the
twine will stretch a little, so be prepared to take up the slack in some way --
many people take a small stick and "tourniquet" the line to keep it taut.

Truth be told, the most maintenance I had to do on this was keeping the lines
taut; tucking the suckers in was something I did casually while inspecting the
plants. The method did very well for me this season -- even when I neglected to
keep up with it, I was able to wrestle the plants into good order later with a few
higher lines and some tucking. Setup and takedown are easy, storage is a breeze
(all you have is fenceposts to stack), and fruit is easy to get to but not too
exposed.

If you're doing this on any scale, grab one of those big 500-yard balls of hempen
twine; mine lasted me the season and then some, for 20 plants.